Bound To Stay Bound

Booklist - 09/01/2015 Influenced by the likes of Picasso, Dalí, and Man Ray, Elsa Schiaparelli shocked the fashion world with her whimsical, inventive designs. The self-taught designer is the subject of Rubin’s latest biography, which follows “Schiap” from her multifaceted education in Italy to her meteoric success in the Paris fashion scene. On broad pages appropriately accented with shocking pink and peppered with well-reproduced photos, Rubin details Schiap’s tenacious independence (“The fact that I was obliged to learn things I did not care about and curb my imagination revolted me”), her playfulness in her design studio, her collaborations with avant-garde artists, and her commitment to the war effort during WWII. With accessible text, an inviting format, and a comprehensive list of multimedia resources in the back matter, this concise biography is well suited to classroom use, particularly for students who prefer to approach history through art. Though the text could have benefited from more images of her outlandish, groundbreaking fashions, kids who “dare to be different” will be enchanted by Schiap’s indomitable spirit and fearless creativity. - Copyright 2015 Booklist.

School Library Journal - 01/01/2016 Gr 5–8—Art historian and biographer Rubin, who has written about art heavyweights such as Diego Rivera, Andy Warhol, René Magritte, and many others, turns to one of the first fashion designers to consider herself an artist (long before every fashionisto/fashionista made this same claim). Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) defied tradition and set out to shock and amuse with her designs. The Paris-based designer collaborated with surrealist artists such as Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau, creating lobster-embellished gowns, hats that looked like upturned shoes, and suits with drawers like a wardrobe. The collaborations were a two-way street: she influenced the artists as much as they did her. The author reminds us that the groundbreaking designer invented many things we consider fashion staples now: the color "Shocking Pink," now called hot pink; fur booties; wedge heels; bolero jackets; shoulder bags. She was also the first designer to "brand herself," licensing her name to many adjunct products (her frenemy and contemporary Coco Chanel only attached her name to her company's perfumes). This is an attractive volume (shocking pink, of course), with large, high-quality photos. Though certain highlights of Schiap's personal life are mentioned, this book concentrates on her creative work. There's a bit of pinkwashing here: some accounts of Schiaparelli mothering skills are less benevolent than Rubin's, and a mention of how Schiap disliked even five minutes' tardiness from her employees speaks volumes. VERDICT This is a stirring account of a strong-willed, one-of-a-kind woman who made it big and did it her way. Her story will inspire young creative types and anybody who feels like an outsider.—Liz French, Library Journal - Copyright 2016 Publishers Weekly, Library Journal and/or School Library Journal used with permission.